Cording a Corset

Since my last entry, I've definitely neglected my plan to blog more often. I think grandiose plans are often easier said than done. Regardless, this lack of blogging has meant more productivity in terms of sewing (as well as lots of time going to work). In my recent sewing endeavor, I managed to crank out the remainder of one of my many UFOs (unfinished objects) or as I like to call them, UFPs (unfinished projects).

This particular project started back in the fall of 2012, when I made the decision to sew a complete regency outfit for my graduation ceremony in the spring of 2014. I figured that I would complete it a year ahead of time and be super organized. Long story short, I purchased the fabric, got it all cut out and marked, and then got lost in other projects that were less daunting. I think it was also forgotten at home when I moved to Michigan for 6 months after college graduation. When I moved back to Massachusetts, I eventually came to the conclusion that I wanted to volunteer in August at Old Sturbridge Village's Textile Weekend, thus making this a perfect project to complete and wear.

Anyways, on to the sewing. For the stays, I used the brand new Laughing Moon #115 Ladies Regency and Romantic Era Corset pattern (which I noticed now includes the option of short stays in addition to the long ones I made). I think what sold me most on it at the time was because it came with not only the corset pattern, but also the chemise pattern (most companies sell the two patterns separately). Based on the awesome experience I'd had with their victorian corset pattern, I figured it would be a safe and easier option than attempting to draft one from a book. I turned out to be right. It was a reasonably easy pattern, with the most tedious bit being sewing the channels for the cording. If you have made at least 2 corsets before, this pattern would be a nice step for an intermediate sewer.

Corset pattern with part of another UFP

In terms of steps, it was fairly simple. I started with the back pieces to get the hang of sewing and cording them, then eventually moved on to the mammoth that was the front panel. If you look at extant corsets of the period, you'll find that although some are ornately embroidered, most are not. I wanted something in the middle, so I traced a couple of designs from Early American Embroidery Designs (c.1815) to make it unique.

Half sewn front panel

Embroidery detail

My materials took a bit of time to initially gather. The one I had the most trouble with was the cording. I bought the twill for the body of the corset in New York's garment district but searched everywhere for cording. The hardest part was not knowing how much I would need to cord the corset. The instructions don't specify a length, probably since it varies by size. I eventually settled on a massive spool of kitchen twine from a store near my house which turned out to work perfectly (plus I have a ton leftover for a corded petticoat).

Mirror shot of finished stays (better shot coming soon!)

Finished front

Timewise, this project took me maybe a month to finish because of the large amounts of handsewing. It's much more comfortable than 18th century stays and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I can't wait to finish more early 19th century undergarments so I can start a gown to wear over it.