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Sunday, June 2, 2019

Returning Heroes

Last October, I finished my first go at a victorian ballgown with excellent results and about 4 or 5 yards remaining of bubblegum pink silk taffeta. I wore this gown to The Commonwealth Vintage Dancers' holiday ball in December and subsequently attended their Regency Ball in February where I was convinced to attend their Civil War era, only costume required event in March. Initially I had held off on attending as my first gown is much more 1840s, with the slim sleeves and long pointed bodice, but I was roped in to attending by several of the lovely ladies who run the group.
Although I already owned a perfectly servicable victorian bodice, my OCD would not let me attend without making a gown that was closer to the 1863 event date. Thankfully I already owned the right pattern (Laughing Moon #117) and plenty of silk to make an extra bodice. I used the same view as my previous bodice - I prefer princess seams over darts as they are much easier to fit (at least I think so) - and changed the straight sleeves for double puffed ones. Instead of the long sloped bodice point, I also brought my point up closer to the natural waistline.
The trickiest part of the whole bodice (besides piping the armscye) was trimming. I did try exploring fashion plates on pinterest, but could not figure out for the life of me how the trim worked. After googling bertha trims, I eventually ended up at Koshka the Cat's blog where she references Janet Arnold's use of bias to create false pleating. Genius! I stitched a ton of bias strips to the bertha pattern and after some adjustments at the shoulders (and tucks at the ball), I was good. So here's the finished result:


Now keep in mind this time the gown was steamed and also benefited from a hoop skirt, but which bodice is your favorite?

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